I paddled out this morning after laying in bed for an hour contemplating whether it would be worth it. Surfline said it was crap, Magicseaweed said it was crap, the cams showed me it was crap, but whatever; It’d been a week of flatness and if all I could get was a 1-2 ft wave then that’s what I’d take. I called up Jack, who rides for our snow team, and we headed out.
It was pretty much what I’d expected: small waves and a changing tide. Not the best combo. But the sun was shining, the lineup was empty, and the best jokes you could expect from a 11-year-old snowboard phenom.
And then this wave came in.
It was somewhere between 4-5 ft, heading towards me like an express train at rush hour. I got up on it and just kept on pumping. It seemed like it lasted forever. Its like it spotted me from 100 miles away, said “alright I’ll get this guy stoked today” and finished me off by launching me right off the lip. It was probably the best wave I’ve caught all summer.
I sat around waiting for another one to show up for at least an hour. Then conditions went down the drain, and the clock said I had to make my way into the shop.
So on this seemingly poor day filled with mushy, tiny waves I caught my favorite wave of the entire summer. I guess patience is a virtue.
Now for something completely unrelated; Have any of you seen this photo of this longboarder on some next level footwork?